Two days gawking over the ancient erotic Hindu temples of Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh State of India. Khajuraho was home to a group of temples, infamously known as the “Kamasutra Temples,” and included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites.

Before arriving in India, Khajuraho was not part of my original itinerary. I considered going there after a couple of travelers I met on the road mentioned having been or planned of going to Khajuraho. Since it was near my route from Varanasi to Chittorgarh and Udaipur, I thought of making a short detour and I was so glad that I did.

Khajuraho had some of the most interesting and exquisite temples I had ever seen in Asia. They were famous for intricate rock carvings depicting very erotic scenes.

I arrived at Khajuraho just after sunrise, which gave me a full day to explore the town. The popular Western Temple group was enough to explore lightly on a half-day visit. It was possible to squeeze in a bike tour to outlying temples but I was not able to go because I had to arrange onward train tickets, which took some time.

On my second day, I had a very worthwhile sunrise photo walk around Shiv Sagar Lake and a small village before taking a mid-morning train to Orccha.

Itinerary Rundown

  • Varanasi: City Center, Sarnath, and Ram Nagar
Day 1
  • Varanasi
  • Khajuraho
  • Varanasi to Khajuraho by Train
  • Khajuraho Hostel Check-in
  • In and Around Khajuraho
Day 2
  • Khajuraho
  • Orccha
  • Shiv Sagar Lake Sunrise Walk
  • Khajuraho to Orchha via Gwalior by Train-Autorickshaw
  • Orchha and Gwalior: Royal Fortresses and Hindu Temples
  • Northern India
  • South and Southeast Asia

Trip Date — September 2013

Itinerary Notes & Tips

Day 1

Varanasi to Khajuraho

  • 5:45pm to 5:15am Ride train from Varanasi to Khajuraho via Train#21108 (11 hours and 30 minutes) – R230
    • 5:45pm- Departure from Varanasi-Junction Railway Station
    • 5:15am – Arrival at Khajuraho Railway Station
  • Ride chartered jeep from Khajuraho Railway Station to town center (20 minutes)
    • Shared the ride with other travelers and locals I met on the train. Public transport is also available.

Khajuraho Hostel

  • Check-in at Hotel Yogi Lodge (Opposite front gate of the Western Temple group; Tel: 07686-274158; Mobile: 09425143673; Email: [email protected])
    • Fan room with private TB – under R400
  • Walk to bus station
    • Buy onward train tickets from the Indian Railways ticket booth.

Khajuraho Walking Tour

  • Shiv Sagar Lake
  • Visit bus station to buy train ticket
  • Western Group of Temples
    • Varaha Shrine
    • Lakshmi Temple
    • Lakshmana Temple
    • Kandariya Mahadeva
    • Devi Jagdambi Temple
    • Kandariya Mahadev Temple
    • Chitragupta Temple
    • Vishwanath Temple
    • Nandi Shrine
    • Parvati Temple
    • Matanageswara Temple (Shiva Temple)

Day 2

  • Sunrise walk around Shiv Sagar Lake
    • Short detour to a small village beside the lake
  • Ride chartered auto rickshaw from Khajuraho town center to railway station
  • 9:10am to 2pm – Ride train from Khajuraho to Orchha via Train#19665