A solo traveler’s day hike from Ngadas to Cemoro Lawang village in East Java, Indonesia: Magnificent views of the Savanna and Sea of Sand at the caldera of Mount Bromo Volcano.

I wanted to say that this solo hike was one of the “craziest” things I had ever done, but after knowing about even crazier things other travelers do while they’re on the road, I’ve developed a higher standard for things that deserve the adjective “crazy.” At the time, however, I did find the word fitting for what I was attempting to do.

Seeing the savanna at the backside of Mount Bromo volcano’s caldera was one of the major things I wanted to do on my trip to Java Island in Indonesia.

I could hire an ojek (motorcycle with driver) to take through the 10-km journey from Ngadas to Cemoro Lawang. Easy! But I chose to give in to my pseudo-masochistic urges by doing it on foot.

I was not a stranger to long walks (2) or hiking through steep-ish mountains. A 10-km hike was doable and the terrain did not seem  too challenging.

Even, my homestay hosts in Ngadas were not alarmed when I told them what I planned to do. For assurance, I asked them if other solo backpackers have done it before. They said “yes,” which built up my confidence.

Hesitation

The sound of rain woke me up the morning I was set to go on my hike. Rain and thick mist covered the mountaintops. I couldn’t see anything further than a couple of meters. It was definitely not the most cheerful way to start my day.

I was considering hiring an ojek, which wasn’t too expensive, actually.

My mind was already fixated on doing the hike, however. I listened to my gut, which told me that I should go for it. If I didn’t, it would be one of those things I knew I would regret later on.

I asked myself, “When will be the next time that I would be able to do something potentially epic like hike through the caldera of an active volcano?”

I only had to go out the door, wear a rain jacket to protect my backpack, then start walking. Simple! If I did not enjoy it, I could always find an ojek and resolve my fixation knowing that, at least I tried.

Hitchhike

I bid goodbye to my homestay hosts and started my journey. The rain stopped shortly after. It was a good sign but I still had to deal with the thick mist and wet blanket of puddles covering the road.

Just about one kilometer away from town. An ojek driver passed and stopped for a quick chat. The guy asked me, in broken English, where I was going and offered to take me to Cemoro Lawang for a fee (I forgot how much).

Since the rain stopped and the mist was already starting to go away, I told him I planned on walking and didn’t have money for the ojek hire. He drove away, for maybe 20 meters, stopped again, and signaled at me to come.

The guy offered a free ride! yeah!!

Ngadas to The Savannah

The ride to the savanna took around 20 minutes. The road went uphill and downhill too many times for comfort. I was so glad I didn’t have to go through all that walking, especially, because the views weren’t remarkably worth the effort.

The magnificent views started to appear when we reached the savanna. I could have ridden the ojek all the way to Cemoro Lawang but I really wanted to take my time to enjoy the view.

So, I dropped off and started walking.

The Savannah

Mount Bromo’s savanna was more beautiful than I imagined. It was basically vast grasslands bordered by steep mountains. One side just happens to be the crater of an active volcano.

I didn’t grow up with these kinds of sights, so, I enjoyed taking photos, a lot of photos, and soaking in not only the view but the whole feel of the place. I loved the empty desolate views, the cool howling winds, and the sun peeking one in a while.

I listened to my favorite alternative music on my iPod, which set up the perfect mood.

The terrain started to become more dry and arid as I walked closer to the “sea of sand.”

The Sea of Sand

Mount Bromo’s crater was surrounded by a vast plain called the “sea of sand.” Looking from afar, I was definitely intimidated. Am I really gonna cross that swirling dustbowl on foot?

There were frequent hirable ojeks passing the area at that point.

I saw a local carrying two big baskets full of long grass-looking plants on his shoulder. He was about to cross the sea of sand too. The baskets he carried were suspended by a long pole. He looked funny walking on the trail almost totally surrounded by big bouncing baskets.

If that guy can do it,  I could do it too. He probably does it every day! I had to do it, even just to finish what I started.

A part of me also wanted to do it because I was attracted by the name “Sea of Sand.” It sounds so “Prince of Persia”-ish and exotic. I know it’s lame that I did it so, later on … I can tell my grandkids (or even just grand nephews) that I crossed the “Sea of Sand” on my way to a volcano in an island in the Pacific :D

Cemoro Lawang

The hardest part was hiking up the steep road from the end of the sea of sand, up to the main village of Cemoro Lawang.

After getting a cheap room at a guest house in Cemoro Lawang, I walked around the village and found a small charming eatery.

Food … finally! I was famished.

They served excellent Javanese coffee and delicious Mee Goreng (fried noodles). The perfect way to end my long hike.

The next morning, I planned on visiting Mount Pananjakan, famous for its godly sunrise view of all three volcanoes: Mount Batok, Semeru, and Bromo.

You can find more details of my 4-day trip to Ngadas, Cemoro Lawang, Mount Bromo, and Probolinggo on my Mount Bromo Itinerary.