HomeAsiaSouth East AsiaThailandThe Freakish Chiang Rai Black Houses in Thailand By Marcos Detourist on November 24, 2013Hidden in a quiet neighborhood in suburban Chiang Rai, Thailand was an eccentric art haven full of freakish art installations, infamously and collectively known as the “Black Houses.”Journey to the Black HousesGetting there by public transport was an adventure in itself. From my guesthouse, I walked to the bus station in Chiang Rai city center and hopped on a north-bound bus.Quick selfie before heading out from my guesthouseI was the only tourist in the bus, so I attempted to tell the conductor that I wanted to go to “Baan Dam” (Thai translation of Black Houses). He didn’t seem to be familiar with it. Repeating the words a few more times, trying different pronunciations, did not work either. Some of the locals were already curiously listening in to our conversation.I pulled out my notes and mentioned Thawan Duchanee, Thai National artist who created the “Black Houses.” Success! The locals were familiar with him.I was dropped off in front of an intersection with no definitive signs around to confirm that I was in the right place. There was a big covered signboard, next to a waiting shed, but the words were all written in Thai.The intersection led to a sleepy neighborhood. No one was outside their houses. I was not able to ask for directions. The silence of the lazy afternoon coupled with the emptiness of the streets started to give me the creeps. It was so quiet, I could hear electricity surging from what could be “live wires” on one of the electric posts.After wandering, taking one wrong turn and backtracking, I finally saw an encouraging English sign saying ‘House of National Artist, Thawan Duchanee.”The Black HousesThe Black Houses got its nickname from the black paint that covered most of its exteriors, but that was only half the story. Throughout the complex, was a recurrence of what most would consider as dark elements.Death and decay were presented on displays decked with stuffed animals and animal remains like bones, horns, fur, and skin.The architectural style of the bigger houses resembled that of traditional temples found in Northern Thailand. These structures, however, did not primarily have any religious purpose. Housed inside were more art installations, collections, and galleries by Thawan Duchanee.I loved the artistry inspired from the blending of Thai Buddhist culture with other cultural concepts. I noticed elements that seemed to stem from Balinese, Zen, Hindu, Pop, Native American culture and Modern Contemporary design.Something interesting was bound to be discovered at every corner.All the houses are surrounded by a shroud of tall blossoming treesSymmetryBuddha under the shadowsSteps lined with buffalo hornsMissing a bone?A whole elephant skeleton! almostGuarded by buffalo skullsBear hideVintage shotgunsRaised house in front of a pebble gardenGiant Fish. The entrance of this house is inside the fish’s mouth.Sculpture up closeLove the vibrant moss!Wood carving detailSide view of the roof spiresGolden roof umbrellasWhen the angle of the sunset was perfect.I ran out of daylight before I was able to explore the whole complex. I went back the next day, so I could soak up more of the Black Houses.Take 2I didn’t have much trouble finding my way back to the Black Houses. Instead of the proper intersection, the bus driver dropped me off at a clearing along the highway and instructed me to follow a foot path that led to a seemingly thick wall of forest trees. I did so blindly.I was up for an adventure :DAfter a couple of meters past the shade of the tree canopy, I saw the houses and continued my wanderings.Foot path over the field leading to the Black HousesThe Black Houses coming into viewOne of my favorite houses. The shape looked like a modern interpretation of a Native American teepeeTo the heavens we go!Stressor for the obsessive compulsiveReminded me of the capsule house in Dragon Ball Z animeWalking out from Patrick Star’s houseAnother cute teepee housePebble garden surrounded by cacti beside the teepee houseRaised wooden house. Reminded me of traditional houses built by native people living in the Cordillera mountains of the PhilippinesBeautiful path leading to the … toiletsLove the silhouette and texture of the roof!Amazing details of the wood sculptureApproaching the biggest house in the complexPeaceful zenHuge central chamberCat furLong table laid with snake skin, fat cur, giant clam shells, and bordered with arm chairs decorated with skulls and hornsBuddha sitting in front of preserved beetlesOrnate support beams with what looked like hanging animal remains, snake skin, maybe?Last view of the Black Houses. Walking out hearing the resounding barking of a hyped up guard dogGetting to the the Black Houses by Public BusRide a north bound bus (20 baht; 30 minutes) from the bus station in Chiang Rai city center. The buses passing by the Black Houses are stationed at platforms 5 and 6. Ask the Tourist Information counter and/or the driver to confirm that you are on the right bus.The bus also passes along the access road to Chiang Rai Airport. The way to the Black Houses are further along, on the left side of the road. Don’t forget to remind the driver to drop you off at the intersection leading to “Baan Dam” (Thai translation of Black Houses) by “Thawan Duchanee.”From the intersection / waiting shed, walk down the village road and take a left turn. The Black Houses should be 500 meters away from the highway.No admission fees to enter the complex but be reminded of the opening hours for visitors.Contact Website: http://www.thawan-duchanee.com/ Address: 333 Moo 13 Nang-Lae, Muang, Chiang Rai, 57100 Thailand. Tel/Fax : (66) 53 – 776 – 333 Mobile: (66) 83 – 336 – 5333 Open to visitors for free every day (Monday to Sunday and public holidays). Opening hours: 09:00-17:00; closed from 12:00- 13:00You can view more details of this particular trip on my Chiang Rai Itinerary Notes or discover more Thailand Travel Notes @DiyDetour.Don’t leave yet. There’s more!5 Days Chiang Rai and Phrae Itinerary — White Temple, Black…1 Month Northern Thailand Itinerary — Ancient Cities &…1 Month North Thailand Itinerary - DIY Backpacking & Travel…Indochina Itinerary: Wanderings in South East Asia's…3 Days Sukhothai & Kampaeng Phet Itinerary — Ancient Temple…2 Days Kuala Lumpur Itinerary — Overnight Layover at KL…Comments Marco saysNovember 26, 2013 at 1:26 pmGaling! You are alone? You’re so brave. :) Marcos saysNovember 27, 2013 at 4:36 pmI went there on my own. There were other visitors and staff too but I came there during the late afternoon. There weren’t too many people to share the whole complex with :D maia rose saysNovember 26, 2013 at 10:50 pmgreat pics marc! love the moss covered statues..hahhaa and the elephant bones! Marcos saysNovember 27, 2013 at 4:34 pmLoved the texture and colors of the statues too. Looked really good surrounded by trees and all the other craziness going on. Micamyx|Senyorita saysNovember 27, 2013 at 3:01 amLovely photos! Wasn’t able to visit Chiang Rai last year. Dapat makabalik na ako ng Thailand ulit to explore more :) Marcos saysNovember 27, 2013 at 4:33 pmMedyo malayo na rin yung Chiang Rai but totally worth it! Christian | Lakad Pilipinas saysNovember 27, 2013 at 9:14 amamazing photos marc! Marcos saysNovember 27, 2013 at 4:33 pmThanks Christian :D bulakana saysFebruary 4, 2014 at 10:34 pmHi .. finally found a clear direction by your post. Thank you Great photos Marc Marcos saysFebruary 5, 2014 at 3:42 pmGlad my post helped you ^_^ Posting of new comments is disabled temporarily.Connect with Marcos on:Detourista.comMarcosDetourist.comFacebookInstagramTwitterDetourista.comDiscover more travel guides and blogs about the Philippines and beyond by Marcos DetouristChoose your next destination: Cambodia, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Laos, Macau, Malaysia, Myanmar, Nepal, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam
Marcos saysNovember 27, 2013 at 4:36 pmI went there on my own. There were other visitors and staff too but I came there during the late afternoon. There weren’t too many people to share the whole complex with :D
maia rose saysNovember 26, 2013 at 10:50 pmgreat pics marc! love the moss covered statues..hahhaa and the elephant bones!
Marcos saysNovember 27, 2013 at 4:34 pmLoved the texture and colors of the statues too. Looked really good surrounded by trees and all the other craziness going on.
Micamyx|Senyorita saysNovember 27, 2013 at 3:01 amLovely photos! Wasn’t able to visit Chiang Rai last year. Dapat makabalik na ako ng Thailand ulit to explore more :)
bulakana saysFebruary 4, 2014 at 10:34 pmHi .. finally found a clear direction by your post. Thank you Great photos Marc