HomeAsiaSouth East AsiaMyanmar2 Weeks Myanmar Itinerary – Burma Solo Backpacking Tips 272 shares By Marcos Detourist on February 16, 2013I was at the end of my backpacking journey around mainland South East Asia, with one more country left on my itinerary: Myanmar.Myanmar, also known as “Burma,” had only recently become a popular destination in the South East Asian backpacking trail. Blame it on decades of military government control for isolating the country from the rest of the world. Since 2008, however, the Myanmar government initiated a series of reforms geared toward a transition to democracy. Tourists are among the first take notice of Myanmar starting to “open” itself more.Myanmar seemed very different from the rest of South East Asia. During my two week visit, the influence of local culture was still strong even in big cities and the main tourist areas. I agree with other travelers who are saying that the best time to visit Myanmar is sooner rather than later before the country succumbs to the ills of mass tourism and globalization.Traveling to Myanmar needed a bit more preparation than neighboring countries. For one, they required all tourists to apply for a visa, even passport holders of South East Asian countries. Also, there were no ATMs that accepted foreign cards anywhere, a result of international banking sanctions. I had to bring all the money I needed and they (banks and legitimate money changers) only accepted immaculately pristine & new US$ dollar (or Euro) bills.Don’t that discourage you, though, getting around within Myanmar was easy. Locals were always helpful and there were many people who spoke good English.Myanmar was beautiful and I highly advise it to travelers who prefer to stay away from the “tourist crowd” and appreciate interactions with local cultures.Myanmar Route MapI traveled around three main areas: Yangon, Bagan, and Mandalay.Two weeks would’ve been enough to do “the big four” Myanmar backpacking trail but I decided to deviate from this popular route by skipping Inle Lake. Squeezing in a quick visit to Kyaiktiyo and riding aboard the train ride to Hsipaw seemed more worthwhile at the time.On this trip, I was able to visit three of the holiest Buddhist sites in Myanmar namely, the Shwe Dagon Pagoda in Yangon, Mahamuni Buddha in Mandalay, and the Kyaiktiyo Golden Rock Pagoda… the “Holy Three of Myanmar” Arrival and first impressions of MyanmarSunrise before boarding my Bangkok to Myanmar flight at Don Meuang International Airport, ThailandArriving at Yangon International Airport, I already felt how different Myanmar was with all the places I’ve previously visited. Most Burmese men and women wore longyi, traditional skirt bottoms similar to a sarong. Almost all men had red stains on their teeth from regularly chewing betel nut, which was surprising because chewing betel nut is only popularly done in remote mountainous regions anywhere else in South East Asia. Whereas most women (including a few of the men), wore a light-colored facial mask called Thanaka, a practice I’ve only noticed in Burma. There were also a considerable number of locals with Indian descent, aside from more Malay and Chinese features.Three days in YangonFormerly known as Rangoon, Yangon is the largest city and capital of Myanmar during its British-colonial days.After stepping foot at Yangon City Center and getting a first glance of all the grand old buildings, I was totally sold on hanging around longer. I was surprised to discover that Yangon had so many well-preserved colonial-era buildings, probably the most impressive in all of South East Asia.I ended up spending three days wandering around Yangon.At the heart of Central Yangon was the golden spire of the Sule Pagoda, a fitting landmark to start my walking tour. Yangon did not feel pre-dominantly Buddhist. I passed by more mosques and grander Christian churches than Buddhist structures within the city center. The abundance of western-style buildings also contributed to the multi-cultural feel.Surrounding the grand colonial period edifices were dense rows and blocks of old apartment buildings, which gave the city a gritty urban feel. Probably, the most characteristic quirk of Yangon’s streets was the generous red splattering of betel nut spit.Yangon’s colonial era buildings had very eclectic architectures. Beside the Sule Pagoda was the City Hall building, infused with strong Burmese architectural influences. Many buildings had domed towers that reminded me of Soviet Russia for some reason. My favorites were the former High Court Building for its imposing clock tower and the Minister’s Office for its sheer size, occupying one whole city block.Burmese locals playing ball in front of the Sule Pagoda and City Hall before the morning rush hourSule Pagoda RoadMinister’s Office BuildingOld High Court buildingI was very fortunate to have witnessed a golden sunset over the surreal beauty of the Shwe Dagon Paya, Yangon’s most famous tourist attraction and the holiest Buddhist site in all of Myanmar.Sunset twilight at Shwe Dagon Pagoda in YangonFour days in BaganI took advantage of traveling on night buses (like the long 8-9 hour land trip from Yangon to Bagan), to fully utilize daylight hours on my trip and save a few bucks on hostel costs.I stayed four days in Bagan, the longest part of my trip, in a single destination. Bagan is Myanmar’s prime tourist attraction, which should not be missed. Its architectural grandeur and historical significance are comparable to the major temples complexes in South East Asia such as in Angkor, Borobodur, or Prambanan.Bagan served as the capital of the ancient Kingdom of Pagan, the first kingdom to unify the regions that would later constitute modern Myanmar. Over 10,000 Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were constructed in the Bagan plains alone during the kingdom’s heyday.The highlight of my trip was climbing temple tops and seeing spectacular sunrise and sunsets over more than 3,000 temples and pagodas in Bagan that still survived to the present day.Golden sunrise at Shwe Sandaw Pagoda Misty sunrise view from Thagya Pone TempleSunset view of Bagan temple tops from Shwegugyi TempleI and two newly met travel buddies traveled around Bagan by horse cart on our first and second day. We visited far-off temples first and worked our way towards the major temples in the Old Bagan area.There were a lot of vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs at popular temples. It could get a bit annoying when you’ve been sightseeing around temples all day and have to constantly to tell them that you’re either not interested in what they are selling or you’ve already bought something similar. I understand they were just trying to make a living.Most of the locals, however, were very pleasant, unlike their counterparts I encountered in other touristy spots around Asia, trying every possible scam to get me to spend money on something. Most Burmese people were charming and seemed genuinely interested in actually having a conversation. Talking with foreign tourists, was a way for them to practice their English and learn about different cultures of the “outside world.”When we were at the Htilo Minlo Temple, one of the vendors told me she had just met a group of Filipinos. I got excited since I rarely met Filipino travelers for weeks that I was backpacking around South East Asia. She held out a piece of paper with a list of common Filipino phrases (Hello, Thank You, How are you?, etc…) that the group of Filipinos wrote down for her. I thought it was sweet.I coincidentally met the group of Filipino tourists later that evening. Bagan was such a small town with limited dining options that you’re bound to bump into other tourists you encounter while temple hopping. Standing statue of Gotama at Ananda Temple, one of the holiest temples in BaganIntricate sculptural carvings of Brahma and other Hindu deities inside Nanpaya TempleDhammayan Gyi, the largest temple in BaganWalking past the twin Buddhas in Dhammayan Gyi TempleOn our third day, we hired a van transport to Mount Popa Temple, which was located a bit far off.My favorite means of touring around Bagan was definitely by bicycle because it felt like discovering the ancient monuments ourselves especially at the small temples where there were no other tourists around.Steep imposing slopes of Mount Popa TempleCycling around BaganSelf-portrait at the wooden balcony and stone staircase of a newly restored monk monasteryFive days in Mandalay and BeyondMandalay is the second largest city and last royal capital of Burma. The city actually seemed to me, more urban and commercially developed than Yangon.I spent five days exploring Mandalay and beyond despite other backpackers saying attractions in Manadalay does not warrant, even, a full day’s visit. I can sort of understand why. If you’re a “you’ve seen one temple, you’ve seen them all” kind of traveler then you’re probably better off spending less time in Mandalay.I, however, generally enjoyed Mandalay. Some sights, like Innwa (Ava), I would’ve rather skipped but I found most places I visited worthwhile.Around Mandalay city center, I pedaled to the Royal Fort and a couple of interesting Buddhist sites nearby like Mahamuni (Golden) Buddha Temple and Sutaungpyei Pagoda atop Mandalay Hill.I got lost while searching for the Shwe In Bin wooden teak monastery. I passed by a school filled with hundreds of monks and went inside out of curiosity. A friendly monk started talking to me, which was so cool because it was my first time and I got to learn interesting tidbits about their life.Mandalay Hill and the fort walls of the Royal PalaceDusk twilight at Mandalay HillMahamuni (Golden) Buddha TempleShwe In Bin (wooden teak) monastery in MandalayI also went to Upper Myanmar’s four ancient cities: Mingun, Amarapura, Innwa, Sagaing, which were easily accessible as day trips from Mandalay. I rode a ferry to get to Mingun, while the other three I reached by local pick-up commute and motorcycle.Burmese fisherman on a wooden boat at the Ayeyarwady River. Taken on the ferry ride from Mandalay to Mingun.White-washed Hsinbyume Pagoda in MingunView of Sagaing Hills from U Min Thonze PagodaBreast-shaped golden mound of Kaung Mu Taw PagodaAmarapura’s Ubein Bridge, the longest wooden teak bridge in the worldSince I’ve been traveling mostly around popular tourist areas, I was also craving to visit one of Myanmar’s “off the beaten track” destination. I decided to go with the scenic train ride to Hsipaw, a small rural town located further north from Mandalay.My two days spent in Hsipaw was one of the most memorable and photographically rewarding parts of my whole trip.Beautiful deep gorge on the train ride to Hsipaw, regarded as one of the ‘must do’ railway journeys of the worldBurmese smiles aboard the happy train to HsipawYoung monk apprentices at the morning marketApprentice walking along the dirt roads in HsipawKyaiktiyoThe last segment of my trip was a two-day visit to Kyaiktiyo, located a few hours south of Yangon. This pilgrimage site is most known for the seemingly gravity-defying Golden Rock that sits on the summit of Mount Kyaiktiyo.Seeing the perfect golden sunset at the Kyaiktiyo Golden Rock Pagoda was one of the most beautiful sights I had ever seen. It came at such great timing at the end of my backpacking trip around Myanmar and the rest of mainland South East Asia.Sunset at Mount KyaiktiyoBudget SummaryBackpacking around Myanmar was slightly more expensive than traveling around nearby South East Asian countries like Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Total Expenses: US$350 (estimate) Daily backpacking budget: US$25 to US$30Travel dated October 2012DIY Guides and Itineraries Myanmar Itinerary(2 weeks): Central and Northern Burma Yangon Itinerary (3 days): Arrival in Myanmar, around Central Yangon, and Shwedagon Pagoda Bagan Itinerary (4 days): Temple Run from Sunrise to Sunset Bagan Tempe Tour Mandalay Itinerary (5 days): Around Mandalay, Mingun, Amarapura, Sagaing, Innwa, Hsipaw Hsipaw itinerary (2 days): Burma Railway Experience Kyaiktiyo Itinerary (2 days): Golden Rock Pagoda Don’t leave yet. There’s more!Enlightenment at Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, MyanmarKyaiktiyo Golden Rock Golden Sunset in Myanmar2 Weeks Myanmar Itinerary — Central and Northern Burma10 Weeks Indochina Itinerary — Thailand, Laos, Cambodia,…19 Days Laos Itinerary — North to South TraverseIndochina Itinerary: Wanderings in South East Asia's…Comments James saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 8:43 amI like how the photos leap out of my screen! Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:37 pmWow. Thanks James. I’ve been trying out a new, more meticulous, post-processing with my photos lately. I’m glad you liked them. ANGLO/Dale saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 12:57 pmIf anyone ever needed a reason to go to Myanmar, this post would be it.So much detail, great pictures too. I can really see Myanmar being one of the best places we’ll travel to (hopefully) in 2013. Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:40 pmThanks Dale. The sooner you travel to Myanmar, the better. Things seem to be changing there quickly. Safe travels! Turtle saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 1:28 pmI was just in Myanmar myself and you’re right, it’s such a beautiful country! I absolutely loved it and it’s opening up more and more everyday (there are ATMs now!). But it’s also getting more expensive day by day, unfortunately. Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:44 pmGood to know. Working ATMs (that accept foreign cards) would surely make it a lot easier to travel around Myanmar. I still want to go back, hopefully, backpacking there wouldn’t be too expensive when I get back. paul | walkflypinoy saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 5:24 pmman! such spectacular photos! you’re a genius! haha. Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:49 pmWow. That’s the first time someone used that word to describe me, haha. frances saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 8:19 pmwhat’s your take about women traveling alone in myanmar? have you encountered solo female traveler in myanmar? Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:50 pmYes, lots of solo female travelers in Myanmar. It’s no less safe than other countries in South East Asia. Turista Trails saysFebruary 19, 2013 at 2:08 amyou should make a calendar of these marvelous images and distribute as prizes Wends of Journeys and Travels saysFebruary 19, 2013 at 7:37 amThese are impressive tips and the photos, Marcos are shouting from where you were and I say, move over, Lonely Planet! :) Carlo | visa-freeworld saysFebruary 19, 2013 at 7:47 amone word. AMAZING. Liz saysFebruary 19, 2013 at 1:44 pmBrilliant photos! This made me more excited for my upcoming backpacking trip there on March 1st. Very detailed. I would also like to take the chance of just walking in and finding a guesthouse when I arrive, but most people say I should book in advance and well, I am a female. I can’t just sleep anywhere in case I don’t find one. Hehe. JB saysApril 17, 2013 at 2:40 pmJust breathtaking esp the cover photo. You have such a good talent in transporting us into your travelogs. Your photos are equally awesome. Wish I have the same opportunity to travel around Asia. Henry L. saysMay 5, 2013 at 8:54 amHi Marc, i really love this blog, kaya lang para akong hinihingal. By just reading and looking at the pictures i can imagine the heat, the rush, the humidity, the dust whatever. Anyway, $350 whole budget in burma, excluding airplane? I wish i could do this instead of the great wall. Marc, if you can please e-mail me…[email protected]…you are connected to my FB page few months ago pa…tnx again…good luck 2 u. maria rona beltran saysMay 26, 2013 at 3:05 amthis has everything, everything anyone can get their feet pushed to go visit myanmar. i am adding this now to my list :) Marcos saysJune 13, 2013 at 7:58 pmWoah! Thanks Maria :D Posting of new comments is disabled temporarily.Connect with Marcos on:Detourista.comMarcosDetourist.comFacebookInstagramTwitterDetourista.comDiscover more travel guides and blogs about the Philippines and beyond by Marcos DetouristChoose your next destination: Cambodia, Hong Kong, India, Indonesia, Laos, Macau, Malaysia, Myanmar, Nepal, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam
Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:37 pmWow. Thanks James. I’ve been trying out a new, more meticulous, post-processing with my photos lately. I’m glad you liked them.
ANGLO/Dale saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 12:57 pmIf anyone ever needed a reason to go to Myanmar, this post would be it.So much detail, great pictures too. I can really see Myanmar being one of the best places we’ll travel to (hopefully) in 2013.
Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:40 pmThanks Dale. The sooner you travel to Myanmar, the better. Things seem to be changing there quickly. Safe travels!
Turtle saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 1:28 pmI was just in Myanmar myself and you’re right, it’s such a beautiful country! I absolutely loved it and it’s opening up more and more everyday (there are ATMs now!). But it’s also getting more expensive day by day, unfortunately.
Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:44 pmGood to know. Working ATMs (that accept foreign cards) would surely make it a lot easier to travel around Myanmar. I still want to go back, hopefully, backpacking there wouldn’t be too expensive when I get back.
paul | walkflypinoy saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 5:24 pmman! such spectacular photos! you’re a genius! haha.
Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:49 pmWow. That’s the first time someone used that word to describe me, haha.
frances saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 8:19 pmwhat’s your take about women traveling alone in myanmar? have you encountered solo female traveler in myanmar?
Marcos saysFebruary 18, 2013 at 11:50 pmYes, lots of solo female travelers in Myanmar. It’s no less safe than other countries in South East Asia.
Turista Trails saysFebruary 19, 2013 at 2:08 amyou should make a calendar of these marvelous images and distribute as prizes
Wends of Journeys and Travels saysFebruary 19, 2013 at 7:37 amThese are impressive tips and the photos, Marcos are shouting from where you were and I say, move over, Lonely Planet! :)
Liz saysFebruary 19, 2013 at 1:44 pmBrilliant photos! This made me more excited for my upcoming backpacking trip there on March 1st. Very detailed. I would also like to take the chance of just walking in and finding a guesthouse when I arrive, but most people say I should book in advance and well, I am a female. I can’t just sleep anywhere in case I don’t find one. Hehe.
JB saysApril 17, 2013 at 2:40 pmJust breathtaking esp the cover photo. You have such a good talent in transporting us into your travelogs. Your photos are equally awesome. Wish I have the same opportunity to travel around Asia.
Henry L. saysMay 5, 2013 at 8:54 amHi Marc, i really love this blog, kaya lang para akong hinihingal. By just reading and looking at the pictures i can imagine the heat, the rush, the humidity, the dust whatever. Anyway, $350 whole budget in burma, excluding airplane? I wish i could do this instead of the great wall. Marc, if you can please e-mail me…[email protected]…you are connected to my FB page few months ago pa…tnx again…good luck 2 u.
maria rona beltran saysMay 26, 2013 at 3:05 amthis has everything, everything anyone can get their feet pushed to go visit myanmar. i am adding this now to my list :)