The Search for Tabon Cave Palawan, Cradle of Philippine Civilization

My curiosity to see the southern half of mainland Palawan led me to the Tabon Cave Complex in Quezon town. Tabon Cave Complex in Lipuun Point is the domain of the Tabon Man, known as one of the earliest human inhabitants in the Philippines.

Despite the celebrity status of the Tabon Man among Filipino elementary degree-holders, significantly less tourists venture to the Tabon Caves (and South Palawan in general) because it is overshadowed by the more popular attractions in north Palawan like Honda Bay, the Puerto Princesa Underground River, El Nido, and Coron.

Boat ride to the Tabon Cave Complex in Lipuun Point, Quezon, Palawan

Quezon town proper to Tabon Cave Complex

We started the journey to the Tabon Caves from the the Quezon Municipal Fish Port. The prominent forest covered hills and steep limestone karst formations were already visible from the fish port. Blue skies barely peeked out that morning. Wasn’t perfect weather to take photos … I was just happy the rain took a break.

View of Lipuun Point from the fish port

Me, the locals, and our guides crowded the small pumpboat. It was a bit scary to see the water level so close :{ The boat ran really slow, which was why it took us a bit more that an hour to get to the beach entrance of the Tabon Caves Complex.

On our way to Lipuun Point

Low-tide Arrival

The pumpboat dropped anchor approximately 100 meters away from the beach because of the low-tide. Some in our group decided to wade in high deep waters to get to shore. While the rest, including me who did not want to risk my camera getting drenched, used the pier that was missing an important structural element, can you guess?

Unloading cargo :D

About Tabon Cave Complex

Tabon Cave Complex is a series of at least 215 caves spread across Lipuun Point Reservation in the southwestern coast of Palawan Island. More than 20 of these caves were found to have archaeological significance and only 7 are open to the Public. The complex is an important archaeological site because it was here were the Tabon Man was found.

Although far older skeletal fossil remains and cultural materials were also found in Lipuun Point and elsewhere in the Philippines particularly in Callao Cave, it is still not proven if they belonged to modern man (homo sapiens sapiens). The Tabon man still is known (so far) as the oldest human remains in the Philippines.

“Tabon Cave Complex and all of Lipuun Point” was submitted in the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It was included not only because it was the site where the Tabon Man was found but, more importantly, the area contains an astonishing wealth and extensive time-range of cultural materials. From the excavations, Anthropologists have learned about the societal development of early inhabitants in the Philippines.

Ligang Cave Beach Entrance

The small beach cove outside Ligang Cave served as the entry point to the Tabon Caves Complex. It was a decent white sand beach in itself with clear inviting waters but what made it special was the canopy of cave formations surrounded by hanging tree branches.

Beach cove entrance to the Tabon Caves Complex

Ligang Cave

Our tour guide led us up the stairs to Ligang Cave, the first of six caves we will be visiting. The cave had a huge entrance chamber aptly lighted by wall openings. I loved how enthusiastic our guide was at the walking us through significant details about the caves. I wasn’t really paying full attention because I was too preoccupied taking photos and trailed behind the group most of the time :p

Entrance chamber of Ligang Cave

Bats and Stalactite formations at the ceiling of Ligang Cave

Tabon Cave

Next up was the actual Tabon Cave where remains of the Tabon Man were excavated. Tabon Cave is one of the largest explored cave in Lipuun Point. Archaeological diggings occupy much of the cave floor now.

Excavations at the Tabon Cave

Looking toward the cave entrance from the deep end of the Tabon Cave

Diwata Cave

Diwata Cave was a much smaller cavity where dwellings of Balinsasayaw or Tabon Bird (Cave Swiftlets) abound. The nests of the Tabon Bird is the main ingredient for the Bird’s Nest Soup, an expensive dish found in many Chinese restaurants.

Dwellings of the Balinsasayaw at Diwata Cave 

Igang Cave

Igang Cave is the longest cave in all of Lipuun. Exploring the cave took a bit of effort because, from the entrance, you’d have to go down a slippery dirt path and then course through pitch black caverns carefully dodging low overhangs of the cave ceiling. We didn’t venture too deep into Igang Cave because it would’ve required more time and equipment.

I found the eerie Igang Cave to be the most hauntingly beautiful. If I had brought my own flash light, I could have spent an hour here (or more) taking photos :D

Bat flying through Ligang Cave

Beautiful stalactite formations inside Ligang Cave

Forest walkways

Concrete trails with steel railings connect the six caves. The walkways winded through verdant forest, which was a refreshing break from the dark and stuffiness of the caves. Several wildlife species can be seen at at Lipuun Point such as the Tabon bird, the Philippine macaque, the monitor lizard, the Palawan hornbill, the Palawan bearded pig, the Palawan stink badger, the Palawan porcupine, the Palawan malcoha, and the Palawan yellow rumpled flower pecker. The 138-hectare Lipuun Point Reservation has remained undisturbed because it is a protected “Museum Site Reservation.”

Scenic forest trails at the Tabon Caves Complex

Manunggul Cave

This cave was named after the Manunggul jar, plenty of which was excavated here. We skipped the cave because it was located high up in the steep limestone cliffs. Our guide told us it had a great view of the ocean.

The Manunggul jar is widely acknowledged to be one of the finest Philippine pre-colonial artwork ever produced and is a considered as a masterpiece. It is now housed at the Museum of the Filipino People and is one of the most popular exhibits there. Manunggul Jar is a secondary burial jar which features two prominent figures at the top handle of its cover represent the journey of the soul to the after life. Another interesting discovery about the Manunggul Jar was the presence of Baybayin (commonly referred to as Alibata) scripts adorning the jar. In secondary burial, only bones were placed in the jar, and the jar itself is not buried.

Manunggul Cave is somewhere up there

Tadyaw Cave

The last cave we visited was Tadyaw Cave. First thing that caught my attention were the massive stalactites near the cave entrance. Some of them even melded perfectly on the stalagmites that looked like support columns. We went inside the pitch black chambers of the cave and found another cave opening on the other side with a view of the forest .

Immaculate stalactites at Tadyaw Cave. Reminds me of a grotesque cathedral gargoyles of sorts … like nature’s crude guardians watching over the portal gates.

View of the other opening of Tadyaw Cave

Bumming at the Beach

After the tour of the caves, we had ample time to hang out at the beach cove outside Liyang Cave where an excellent view of towering limestone cliffs, verdant forest, and clear waters can be seen.

Tabon Caves Complex, the cradle of civilization in the Philippines

There were a few off-shore islands nearby, which can be easily accessed, like Sidanao Island and Tataran Island just outside the Tabon Caves Complex. Further away were Double Island, Potetan/Tidepole Island, Tamlangon Island, and Malapakun Island.

Island with long white sand beach outside off the shores of Lipuun Point

We huddled up under the protection of the caves when it started to rain. I was a willing stranded castaway :)

We boarded the boat shortly after the rained stopped. There were heavy clouds and thick rain in the distance. It enveloped the northern horizon and I was wishing our snail paced boat could speed it up a notch. Fortunately, the dark mass drifted away from our direction. We arrived back in the mainland safe and dry :)

On our way back to Quezon town Proper

I was relieved I finally got to visit the Tabon Cave Complex and Lipuun Point. Visiting the Tabon Cave Complex was an enlightening educational immersion where I got to learn more about early human history in our corner of the globe. The worthwhile experience made me crave all the more to visit other parts of Southern Palawan.

How to Get to Tabon Cave Complex

The Tabon Cave Complex in Lipuun Point is located  just beside the town center of Quezon, Palawan. Since it is closed off almost entirely by limestone cliffs, getting there by pumpboat (motorized outrigger) is the only practical option. The boat to Tabon Cave takes around 45 minutes from Quezon town proper, which in turn was four hours away from Puerto Princesa City, the capital and gateway to Palawan.

Round trip transfers on a pumpboat costs P800, which was pricey if I were to rent the boat all by my lonesome. So, I decided to camp out at Quezon town proper and wait for other visitors to join with.

National Museum – Quezon Branch

The Tabon Cave Complex is maintained and managed by the National Museum of the Philippines. All visitors must register and get a permit from the National Museum – Quezon Branch before visiting the caves. This was convenient for me because I could just wait at the museum, which was walking distance from the town center, and ask the other tourists if they were willing share the boat transfer.

I arrived in Quezon town in the evening after a long 8 hour bus ride from El Nido to Puerto Princesa and another 4 hour (L300) van commute to Quezon. I showed up at the National Museum at 1pm the next day. The museum employees told me there weren’t any walk-ins or booked tours yet. I waited at the museum for a little over an hour before they finally told me to try again tomorrow. I had already expected this likelihood since it was low season during my visit (1st week of December).

Went back at 8am the next day. Fortunately, a group of locals came and agreed to take me in. Entrance fee / permit to Tabon Cave Complex is P20 per person. Since our’s was the first (and probably the only) group visiting Tabon Cave that day, the tour guides joined us on the boat. There were no additional fees for the guides.

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