Santa Cruz Island: Pink Sand Beach in Zamboanga

Is there really such a thing as a pink sand beach? and does the beaches of the Santa Cruz Islands in Zamboanga really have a characteristic pink sand as popularized?

These were a few questions I wanted to figure out for myself during my first trip to Zamboanga City.

The day before my planned trip to the Santa Cruz Islands, I went to the Department of Tourism (DOT) Regional Office located beside Lantaka Hotel (NS Valderosa Street). All tourist visiting the islands are required to coordinate with the DOT since they are the ones arranging transportation and coordinating with the military station in the island.

I checked to see if there were any bookings for the next day. Fortunately, there was one and the DOT Staff told me to be at Paseo del Mar (beside Fort Pilar) early morning the next day.

Ferry to Santa Cruz Islands from Zamboanga City

I arrived at the gates of Paseo del Mar at 7:55am and discovered that the group had already left! Since I was traveling solo, I would have to pay a minimum of P800 to rent a whole boat instead of just P100 if I joined the group.

Bayside area of Paseo del Mar

Great Santa Cruz Island was already visible from Paseo del Mar.

On my way out, two locals, a mother and a son, approached me and asked if I wanted to join them. They were also planning to visit Santa Cruz. We spent the next hour looking for other joiners. At around 9:00am, a big group came up … finally! There were around 10 of us and we only paid P100 each for the round trip ferry ride :)

Our motorized ferry boat

Zamboanga City Proper (Pueblo)

Lantaka Hotel

Zamboanga City Port Area

Santa Cruz Islands of Zamboaga City

Zamboanga City has a total of 28 off shore islands. I got really totally stoked seeing some of them during the plane ride … and I thought Davao City had it good with Talikud Island. Zamboanga City had it better! the islands are even within sight from the city proper.

The Santa Cruz Islands, the most popular among the 28 islands, is composed of the “Great Santa Cruz Island” and the “Little Santa Cruz Island.” Only the Great Santa Cruz Island is open to the public since the whole area is a protected natural park.

Approaching Great Santa Cruz Island

Great Santa Cruz Island

It took us around 40 minutes to get to Great Santa Cruz Island from Paseo del Mar. You could get there faster by speed boat.

Beautiful coastline of Great Santa Cruz Island

The scenery was nothing short of amazing! The sand was fine, powdery, and cool even under the midday sun. The waters were very inviting transitioning from emerald green, turquoise, and deep deep blue.

It’s one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve visited in the Philippines and to think that it was so near a major urban center.  It’s probably the only highly urbanized city in the Philippines with this kind of set-up.

View of Little Santa Cruz Island

Beach Volleyball Court

There were several cottages at the beachfront but me and my two new friends decided to stay at the undeveloped part of the beach so we won’t have to pay the rentals :)

My friends brought fishing gear and cast their line the moment we arrived at the beach. They caught a fish in less than a minute’s wait. Amazing! The area is definitely teeming with sea life.

Shrimp bait

They took the boat out into the sea to do some more fishing. I was able to join them on the boat when they were still a few meters away from the shore.

I realized I forgot my sunblock at the beach so I dived into the water and swam across. Even though I was a good swimmer, I was struggling to get to the shallow waters. I attempted to swim back to the boat but the current was too strong. I stayed at the beach while they sailed further out.

It was already lunchtime when they got back. They surprised me with a fresh batch of “kinilaw” prepared from the fish they just caught and invited me and the boatmen for lunch. So cool! and very very delicious. Kinilaw is raw meat “cooked” in a vinegar mix.

The Mystery of the Pink Sand Beach

To answer my opening question. If seen from afar, the sand does not appear visibly pink. Not “fabulously” pink as I had imagined at least :p You’d have get a closer view to appreciate its pink shade. The color was more of a faint cherry blossom pink.

The discoloration is caused by the abundance of red organ pipe coral sediments mixed with the white (coral) sand.

Macro view of Santa Cruz’s Pink Sand Beach

Washed-up red organ pipe coral at Great Santa Cruz Island

Walked along a good length of the beach. I was advised not to stray too far and stay within sight of the military personnel.

Western side of Great Santa Cruz Island

Military Installation at Great Santa Cruz Island

 
Beautiful cloudy sky

Speedboat 

Swampland Mangrove Forest

While I was exploring the beach alone, one of the island’s residents befriended me and offered to show me around. He first took me to the inland part of the island, which was dominated by a huge mangrove area. There were some seed planting activities spearheaded by a youth group when we got there.

Swamplands at the interior of Great Santa Cruz Island

Not the most pretty sight but this area is very important in the ecology of the island.

While reviewing the island’s geography in Google Maps, I noticed that the Great Santa Cruz Island looked more like an atoll (lagoon island). Take out the swampland/ mangrove forest and you’d have a heart-shaped outer rim formed by pink sand.

Satellite view of Great Santa Cruz Island

Bajau Cemetery

Manong also took me to a cemetery, old burial grounds by the Bajau tribe, situated at the eastern part of the beach. It was my first time to see these kind of tombstones:

The most interesting detail were the miniature wooden boats placed on top of the graves. Bajaus are known for their seaborne lifestyle. I was told there are some documentation about this cemetery at the National Museum (Fort Pilar).

Souvenir Vendors at Santa Cruz

After “the tour,” manong led me to the souvenir vendors near the cottages. His wife was attending one of the tables :) I’m actually not the type to bring home pasalubong but they had a lot of pretty items for sale. I couldn’t resist buying a few for my friends. Bought 3 bracelets and 2 necklaces – all for P280.

Red organ pipe coral

Dried up black coral, which they also turn into beads

Back to Zamboanga City Proper

At around 2pm we left Santa Cruz Island and went back to Paseo del Mar.

This was just a tiny part of Zamboanga there are a lot more beautiful places worth visiting.

Zamboanga City is truly blessed. If only more people know about these beautiful sites in Zamboanga, they might think differently about paying this southern city a visit.