I first saw the Kapupurawan White Rock in a photo posted along Saud Beach, Pagudpud. I knew I just had to visit this interesting rock formation located at the coast of Burgos town. I took a jeepney from Bojeador Lighthouse entrance and dropped off at the highway intersection leading to the Kapurpurawan White Rock. The intersection was easy to spot since there was a poster put up just beside the highway junction. The locals I talked to earlier advised me to take a tricycle going to the actual site. The coast was still another four kilometers from the highway. I waited for fifteen minutes but did not encounter any passing tricycles. Not even tourists or locals. The sun was already starting to set. I had to make a decision.
Deserted dirt road going to the Kapurpurawan White Rock Formation
The Long Walk to Kapurpurawan White Rock
They say bad luck comes in threes. Maybe good things also come in triples also. After my lucky streak at the Bangui Windmills and Bojeador Lighthouse, I wanted test my new theory by risking a travail to the Kapupurawan White Rock. At 3PM, I started following the dirt road. The trail was (literally) straightforward at first. The only thing I did not like was the scorching heat, the dust trail I was making, and carrying a heavy backpack to top it off. Attempting to tune out the discomfort, I listened to some brit pop tunes from my ipod. It felt like a moment during the first half of ”127 hours.”
Orange dirt road leading to Kapurpurawan White Rock
Imagining I was at the Australian Outback
Then, it started to get real. The trail went into curves and became less developed. There were tall bushes at both sides of the narrow dirt path. My imagination kicked in with wild scenarios. Someone (or something) with evil intentions could jump out anytime from the bushes. I could end up in a bad situation and no one would be there to help me. Heck, no one even knew I decided to walk alone in that deserted trail. I stopped walking when I came to a fork in the road. I had to choose between (1) going forward or (2) taking the odd turn right. I followed my instincts and went forward. There was still no sign of the coast after walking for 30 minutes. The sky was already starting to get its golden sunset glow. Feeling lost, I doubled my pace.
I was so worried I didn’t even bother taking self-portaits along the scenic road.
I saw the view of the coast after walking for another fifteen minutes. At this point, I was just thankful I didn’t get lost and if I move really fast, I could still get back to highway before sundown. At the end of the road, there was a concrete staircase going down to the shoreline.
When I finally got a full view of the coast and the Kapurpurawan White Rock, I couldn’t help but take a breather and appreciate the beautiful scenery. The long and tiring walk under the scorching heat was so worth it!
Kapurpurawan Coast
I loved the raw unusual beauty of the coast at Kapurpurawan. I haven’t seen anything like it. There wasn’t a sandy beach bordering the sea … only a rugged layer of rock covering the entire cove. The persistent beating from the strong waves resulted into an unusual sight of shallow pools and sharp fissures. No tropical coconut trees either. Just bonsai plants, moss, and seaweeds. The whole place had a very otherworldly feel. At the western end, was the strange Kapurpurawan White Rock. It was named so because of its characteristic white color. It looked like a large dragon, watching over the entire coast. The Kapurpurawan White Rock was definitely a must-see attraction in Ilocos Norte.
Kapurpurawan White Rock
Moving closer towards the “white dragon,” I took my time walking across the sharp rocks and climbing up the slippery white sandstone. At the top, I had a great view overlooking the whole coast. It would have been nice to hear a geologist explain how this unique rock formation came to be.
Me at Kapurpurawan White Rock
After a generous time alone at Kapurpurawan White Rock, I was startled by the sight of three people coming towards my direction. Turns out they were a traveling couple accompanied by their tricycle driver. Like me, they also came from Pagudpud but hired a tricycle service to take them to the Bangui Windmills and the Kapurpurawan White Rock. I made a deal with them … take their souvenir photos in exchange for a hitch back to the highway :D I would’ve gladly done it anyways. I just didn’t want to do the long lonely walk again.
The tricycle driver left us at a sari-sari store along the highway at around 5:00PM. I remembered I hadn’t eaten a meal the whole day! Forgetting to eat does happen to me sometimes. I guess the beautiful sights distracted me even more from my hunger urges. I bought 11 packs of boy bawang and 2 bottles of RC cola for a quick charge of calories. We boarded a bus at 5:30PM and arrived in Laoag City, an hour after. Finally, I was back to civilization!
In the Philippine Ilonggo dialect, ambot ah literally means "I don't know." After graduating in college, I decided to hold off pursuing my profession and embarked on a free spirited journey of adventure and self-discovery. My travels have led me to many places across the Philippine Islands and South East Asia. I don't know where this path will take me but I'm certain I'll get a lifetime of stories out of it.
I have read many blogs about kapurpurawan and have long been planning to go. with my family, preferably. but now having 2nd thoughts if kids should be brought along, since the rocks don’t seem kid-friendly. am i right? pang adult trip lang?
hey, thanks for sharing this. been following your awesome blogs.
I agree its not kid-friendly because of the terrain but it’s not totally impossible to bring them. They will just need constant attention. Walking along the cliffs going to the white rock formation, you can avoid the sharp rocks. Yun lang, baka di nila ma enjoy as much as we would :)
superb! I wanna come here. thanks for this Marcos!
I’m getting more and more excited to visit every time I see pictures of Kapurpurawan rock! :-)
amazing! your pictures look like postcards!
ive been to Pagudpud more than five times but never heard about this white rock! I thought i ran out of things to see there. . but NOT! thanks for sharing this… and i will be looking for it the next time i make a trip there. :)
never thought something beautiful like this exists here in the PH, i mean it looks like a scene from africa or some desert in the middle east. Some rock formation here in batangas are located in anilao batangas over at outrigger resort. Our pre nuptial pics was taken there and i can say the rock formation is good but the scene in kapurpurawan is much better. Thank you for sharing this Marcos. Shoot sa bucket list! :)
Same sentiments :D though I haven’t been to Anilao, Batangas yet …. I love your catch phrase!
Every time I see that rock formations, I always wanted to go there. Parang creepy siya, hehe but beautifully established. Great pictures :)
Amazing pictures! Thank you for posting a shot of the starting point of the trail, that will be of help when I get the chance to visit the interesting rock formation.
Thanks. You’re welcome :)
WOW! No words can express the natural beauty of your images. The place is really awesome. Hope someday I’ll be able to go to this place.
Thanks JB :)
Kapurpurawan, The place i wont forget, My precious “pakner” (digicam) “died” here. It was in my friends fingers (hanging) then strong wind blown and suddenly dropped off to the rocks with sea water. I almost cried but thank God SD Card was not damaged. All the pix from Laoag, Paoay, Malacanang of the North, Light House, Kapurpurawan Rock Formation was retrieved. Bit lucky because i got so much photos here before the incident happened. Unlucky because My “pakner” didnt see and stored Pagudpud and Vigan.
I’d be pissed too if that happened to me. I can imagine how much damage your camera took when it fell on the sharp rocks … with sea water pa.
wow. you captured it sooo well. let’s go claveria cagayan. am sure you passed by there when you went from pagudpud to tuguegarao. :) i live there (i mean my roots). awesome rock formations too, and more.
Next year. Let’s plan the trip :D
i fell in love with Kapurpurawan. didn’t mind the heat when i was there. i kept on taking photos and jump shots while my guide/tricyle driver was hiding from the shade the whole time. did even explore the “back view”. Tunay na kayganda ng Pinas!
Cool hubsch… seems like a lot of people have had many great adventures at Kapurpurawan :D
Worth after patience of long walk. :-).
Indeed ^_^
hahaha i rmmbr asking for an itinerary frm you bec i was too lazy to research and there’s nothing abt Kapurpurawan there so I thought you realy missed it. Classmates tlga tau, I kept smiling reading your post bec we had the same experience, tama ka! haha ako naman d ko tlga alam na malayo, kala ko super kalapet lng kase, then nung patagl ng patagal na ang lakad, like you kinakabahan na tlga ako, feeling ko my hahablot nlng saken at sasaksakin ako at itatapon dun sa talahib. haha I rmmbr tht intersection too, napag-isip din ako dun. haha nice photos btw, as always.
thanks Gael. Na suprise din ako reading your blog post, naka relate talaga ako, hehe.
Tibay mo sir! Nilakad mo yun, nakakatakot. Kami nga naka tryke na kami, takot pa kami na baka may “something” kidnapper/npa etc etc ang pumapasok sa isipan namin. Ipatubos kami or whatever, poor pa naman kami san kami kukuha ng panranson kung sakali. Kalayo nyang nilakad mo sir, sigurado ako kabado ka noon. BUT WHAT IS ADVENTURE AND THRILL KUNG HINDI KA NAKAKARAMDAM NG NGINIG AT KAUNTING PARANG NAIIHI, dba? I admire your determination na lakarin ito.
Sir next time you visit Pagudpud, try to contact this number and surely he will take you there via tryke (tricycle) at affordable price (package (North Trip and South Trip) for all the tourist spot in the area is 600 Pesos/person Negotiable). Manong Ferdi @ 09108591175.
My friends and I will be going to Ilocos this April. I’m so glad I came upon your site. We’re now taking Kapurpurawan in our itinerary. With a place that beautiful it’d be a shame if we pass up an opportunity to see it.
Cool.
Yes, it was one of my favorite places I visited in Ilocos Norte and it was just along the way from the Bojeador Lighthouse and Bangui Windmills.
how to get there from manila;-)